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Sakhalin Oblast/Kurile IslandsSakhalin Oblast
There is no direct access from the US to Sakhalin. Following are the international routes to Sakhalin. Please note that Sat denotes -Sakhalin Air Trans, an airline using Boeing 737 aircraft for its international flights except for the flight from Hokkaido
You may also connect through Seoul through Khabarovsk and Vladivostok. SAT flies it Boeing 737 from Khabarovsk to Sakhalin on Mondays, Wednesdays, Thursdays, Fridays and Sundays. Boeing 737 flights from Vladivostok operate on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays. There is also a regular ferry service operating from Wakkanai in Japan to Korsakov, Sakhalin Island. The ferry leaves Wakkania at 10:00 am and arrives in Korsakov at 15:30pm. For dates of departure please go to www.city.wakkanai.hokkaido.jp/main/sakhalin.infoteiki.english.htm
Because Sakhalin is an island, it has taken longer for people to discover it. However, with oil and gas development its infrastructure (hotels) was ready to receive tourists, more so than in any other region. While you may be able to sleep and eat well in Sakhalin, this does not necessarily mean that the local tour operators are ready to receive you. Even though Japan has send travelers from the beginning of 1990, because of its joint history, travelers from other countries are slower to follow. Sakhalin is an interesting region both historically and culturally. It is also much easier to access different locations as a local train goes almost all the way up north. However, tour operators are suffering from lack of visibility and perhaps the skills to put interesting packages together. We are noting an interesting Web Site for you to learn more about Sakhalin that is hosted by the local administration: www.Sakhalin.ru/Engl/Region/RegTourism.htm
The Santa Resort was constructed in the beginning of oil development out of prefabricated modules. It has changed hands several times from Russia onto Japanese and back. It is situated in a beautiful park like area, overlooking the mountains. Rooms have all western comforts; there are tennis court, sauna and Jacuzzi and whirlpools. The hotel has two restaurants, Japanese and European, two bars and a small souvenir shop. Transportation to and from town is available. All credit cards accepted
The Hotel Sakhalin Sapporo is a favorite with ex-pats because of its atmosphere. A couple of renovations have made this hotel still Russian but comfortable and resembling more a European boutique hotel. The hotel is situated in the downtown area. Rooms are large and each has their own individual décor. There is a good restaurant and two bars. The excellent and friendly front desk personnel are able to converse in English and the service personnel in the bars and restaurant is efficient and helpful. An excellent buffet breakfast is included. Room rates, $120/double. Credit cards accepted. All credit cards accepted
Sakhalin Sapporo Lobby
Sakhalin Sapporo Bar The Natalia Hotel is also located quite close to downtown. The hotel was build approximately five years ago and offers semi-suite accommodations. All rooms have a living space, bedroom, and bathroom and offer kitchen facilities. The hotel is a favorite for long-term residents and is therefore not always available. Décor in the rooms is Korean. There is a small bar and restaurant on the premises. 38 Antona Buyukly Street Tel: 3-66-83, 3-25-86
The Eurasia Hotel was the first western style hotel in the region and is located on the main square, next to the railroad station that at night can be quite noisy. Rooms are small but quite adequate, there is a bar on top of the hotel and a restaurant that can be accessed from the street serving Russian/Japanese cuisine and offering life music. While in a pinch this hotel provides good accommodations, prices are high in comparison with other hotels. 54 Vokzalnaya Street, Tel: 71-35-60, 71-44-66
The Lada Hotel is the official administration hotel. It overlooks the park but is still very close to the downtown area. This is a typical Russian hotel but the rooms are comfortable and clean. There is only Russian spoken on the front desk and in the restaurant that is adjacent to the lobby. There is also a small shop. The Gagarin Hotel is located near the park about ten minutes walk from the city center and close to the Sakhin Business Center. This is an excellent alternative to the Sakhalin Sapporo Hotel at about half the cost; single rooms are $60 per night and include a nice breakfast. Rooms, including bathrooms are modern.
The Oriental Hotel is located adjacent to the Tourist Hotel. This hotel has recently been refurbished and is popular with the oil crowd.
There are flights to Okha, the most northern point of the island on Tuesdays and Saturdays by An-24. SAT operates flights on their Boeing 737 to and from Sakhalin to Khabarovsk on Mondays, Wednesdays, Thursdays, Fridays and Sundays in the morning and on Tuesdays in the evening. Flights to Vladivostok operate on Mondays, Wednesdays, Fridays and Sundays in the afternoon. There is a four times a week flight to Kunashir, which often is delayed due to weather and requires reservations two weeks ahead of departure. The flight operates on Tuesdays, Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays. It is also possible to visit Kunashir, Shikotan and Iturup by vessel departing once a week from Korsakov. However, the booking procedure is extremely difficult and the ships schedule entirely unreliable and therefore suitable only for those who have no time restrictions. There is regular train transportation to Nogliki daily on train No. 1/961 leaving at 18.25 and returning at 16.10 daily. Please note that compartments are much smaller (the train track is narrower, build by the Japanese) and the compartments are not as comfortable. There is also a ferry that operates between the port of Kholmsk and Vanino. www.ceebd.co.uk.ceebd/vcsp7.htm
Sakhalin also has a mild climate but can be very rainy in Spring and Fall. Winter comes early with much snow. Summers can be hot and as everywhere in Eastern Russia, August and September are the best months to visit. The largest island of the Sakhalin Oblast is Sakhalin. It occupies a territory of 78,000 square km and stretches from north to south for 948 km. It is separated from the mainland of the Far East by the Tartar Strait, borders the Pacific Ocean on the east and the Sea of Ohotsk to the north. In the south, Sakhalin is separated by the La Perouse Strait between Sakhalin Island and the Japanese Island of Hokaido. The climate in Sakhalin is mild compared to that of the Khabarovski Krai because it is influenced by the sea. Spring arrives in April and the months of May, June and July can be very rainy and foggy. Summer is cool except for the northern regions. Temperatures in the south range between 17-19C. Winter comes early and is accompanied by lots of snow. Temperatures range from -15C and up.
The mysterious islands of Sakhalin and the Kuriles were a long time source of great attention by many navigators, explorers and sailors. The first explorers of Sakhalin were the Cossacks, Ivan Moskvitin in 1640 and Vasily Poyarkov and Ivan Nagita in 1643-46. They actually brought these islands to the attention of the Russian government. An epoch was being born; leading major historical researchers such as V. Golovnin, a navigator, geographer and economist, came to the area. Golovnin collected rich materials on the fauna and flora of the Kuriles and put these islands on the map. The remarkable Russian navigator, G. Nevelskoy, collected invaluable data on the development of Sakhalin and the Kurile Islands and actually established Sakhalin as an island. The names of many Russian navigators and explorers of Sakhalin are now indicated on the map as geographical features. It was only in the 17th century that Sakhalin and the Kuriles came to the attention of Japanese researchers. In 1855 the first Russo-Japanese treaty was signed in Shimoda agreeing that the border line between Russia and Japan would lie between the islands of Iturup and Urup. The islands of Urup and everything to the north belonged to Russia. The islands of Iturup, Kunashir and Habomai remained territories of Japan. Sakhalin was not included in this division. From 1869 Sakhalin was the place in Russia for exiled criminals and revolutionaries. In 1869, Chekov, a famous Russian writer, spent three months in Sakhalin and called it a chasm of sorrow. He described everything about the hard life in that period in the book entitled "The Island of Sakhalin." The struggle between Russia and Japan for supremacy in Manchuria and Korea led to the outbreak of the 1905 war. In 1905 a peace treaty between Russia and Japan was signed in Portsmouth, U.S.A. The result of this treaty was that Russia ceded the southern part of Sakhalin to Japan. In 1918 the civil war which had begun in Russia spread to Sakhalin. In April, 1920, Japan occupied northern Sakhalin and soon began its economic assimilation. Sakhalin oil was the subject of their attention. According to an agreement signed on January 20, 1925, the USSR government granted to Japan concessions to oil and coal deposits for a period of 45 years. Until 1944 Japan exported to themselves two thousand tons of oil yearly. On February 1946, Sakhalin and the Kuriles became Russian territory. Until this time the Japanese have not recognized the lawfulness of the agreement governing the ownership of the southern Kuriles.
The native people who settled thousands of years ago on Sakhalin Island are the Nivkhi (current population 2,000), the Ul'la or Oroche (population 500) and the Evenki (population 180). Ainu people once occupied Sakhalin, the Kurile Islands and northern Japan, but they were forced out and moved to Japan. Most of the indigenous population live in the districts of Aleksandrovsk, Okhinsky, Nogliksy, Tymovsky and Poronaysky. The Nivkh population is the largest on the island . They believe (allegorically) that Sakhalin is a giant seal, whose mountains and forests are ruled by the deity, Palis, and whose seas are ruled by another god, "Tolis." There is a movement by the native people, specifically the Nivkhi, to return to their native occupations which are fishing, hunting and collecting mushrooms and medicinal plants. This move could be partly realized through the development of tourism.
Sakhalin Island consists of three parallel chains of mountains, Primrose, Rush and Porchelsky. The Rush range in the western part of Sakhalin is the longest. On the east is the Susnaisky Range with a peak named after Chekov (1045 meters). This peak is a favorite of the locals for climbing and skiing. The highest mountain of Sakhalin is Lopatine (1609 m). Sakhalin is really quite wild which you can perceive when you take the road up north, either by train or four wheel vehicle.
Rare birds include the white tailed sea eagle, Steller sea eagle, spotted greenshank and Blackston's fish owl. Brown bears, sable, river otters, musk deer and foxes all live in the forests. Whales, dolphins, sea lions, walruses and a variety of seals feed off Sakhalin's shore line and that of the Kuriles."
"Kril'on Peninsula which typifies Sakhalin flora and fauna has some elements of eastern Asiatic flora, and is the only place on Sakhalin with a high concentration of broad-leaved trees. These are important nesting grounds for rare birds. The rivers are important for salmon spawning and large numbers of bears inhabit the forest. Moreron Island situated 50 km west of the Kril'on Peninsula in the Tartar Strait, has a mountainous relief with beautiful cliffs and waterfalls. There are 448 species of plants, including six Red Book species. The coastal waters support rich marine life, including sea lions, gray whales and rare sea urchins. The island is home to the only southern colony of the long billed guillemot, the largest colonies of black-tailed gulls in Sakhalin and is a nesting ground for shore bird species."* Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk is the capital city of Sakhalin. It is not a very pretty town but it is located in beautiful surroundings. The town already has better infrastructure than any other city in the RFE, except for the road system. There is also a good, informative regional museum. Kurile Islands
Sakhalin Air Trans from Yuzhn-Sakhalinsk
Individual and small group travel by request. Also see cruise through the Kuriles under Sakhalin region.
The Kurile Islands are part of the Sakhalin Region. They are divided into three administrative districts, Severo Kurilsky, Kurilsky and Yuzhno-Kurilsk. Total land area is 156 thousand sq. km with a population of about 29,000 people. The Kurile Islands consist of two parallel ranges, the Great Kurile Ridge, and the Little Kurile Ridge which separates the Sea of Ohotsk from the Pacific Ocean. The Great Kurile Ridge stretches for 1,200 km from the Kamchatka Peninsula to Hokaido. It comprises more than 30 islands, the largest of which are Paramushir, Simushir, Urup, Iturup and Kunashir. The islands are predominantly of volcanic nature covered with mountains. The highest mountains are Alan (1239 m), Tyatya (1819 m), Bogdan Khmelnitsky (1589 m) and Mitha (1539 m). There are almost 150 volcanoes in the Kurile Islands and about 40 of them are active. The little Kurile Range is about 120 km long. It stretches from Hokaido in the northeast. It comprises six small islands, which are relatively flat, about 20-40 m from sea level. An exception is Shikotan Island which is characterized by low mountain relief, formed as a result of an ancient volcanic destruction.
The climate in the Kurile Islands is moderately cold monsoon. Average temperatures in the coldest month (February) are -6/7C and in the warmest month (August) in the north -10C and in the south +17C. The precipitation level varies between 600 mm/year in the north and 1000 mm in the south. Fog happens frequently in the summer and blizzards and storms in the winter. The majority of sunny days happen in August, but this season is also characterized by typhoons and hurricane winds.
The first information about the Kurile Islands was supplied by Russian pioneers in the middle of the 17th century. In 1698, V. Atlasov discovered the island which was later named after him. In 1711-1713, D. Antiserof and L. Kozyrevsky investigated Shumshu, Paramushir and Makanrushiy islands. In 1738-1739, M. Shpanberg had mapped the Kurile Islands for the first time and S. Krashnennikov made the description of their nature. I. Kruzenshtern, V. Golovin and other Russian explorers contributed greatly in the investigation of the island.
The largest islands of the little Kurile Ridge feature numerous rivers and lakes. A lot of these lakes are situated in the craters of extinct volcanoes. Lakes are often formed when lava flows block the rivers. Lakes of lagoon size can be found in the coastal zones. Shores are mainly steep or terraced. Water streams falling down from deep rifts form unique and astonishingly beautiful waterfalls, such as "Old Monk Beard" or "Beauty's Hair." One of them, "Iilya Muramets," is one of the highest ones in Russia (141 m). The Kurile Islands are famous for their numerous hot springs and mineral water with a wide spectrum of balneological properties which are explained by manifestations of contemporary volcanism. A number of hydropathic establishments (Yuzhno-Kurilsky, Kurilsky, Tyatya) function successfully based on hot springs and mineral water. The Kurile Islands are a phenomena of nature. They look like vast botanical gardens where subtropical representatives, yew, Kurile bamboo, wild grapes and hydrangea, neighbor with flora of polar regions (pine, alder, and stone birch). Vegetation of the taiga is widely represented (birch and many other species). But most dramatic are the high bamboo plants and its gigantic herbs. Fauna of the island is quite varied too, including bears, ermines, foxes, chipmunks and others. Bird colonies are found on the shores and marine mammals are everywhere, such as fur seals and sea otters. Kunashir, one of the great Kurile Ridge Islands, is by far the most beautiful of the islands. It is also the most densely populated. It is located close to Hokaido and is 75 miles long and, at it narrowest point, 8 miles wide. Kunashir means "black island" in the Ainu language. The island is part of the Ring of Fire and its active volcanoes are Tyatya, the highest peak on the island (1819 m), Rurui, Mendeleyev and Golovnin volcanoes. The last ones are separated with the Sernovodsk Isthmus and the Peschanoye Lake.
The center of Kunashir is Yuzhno-Kurilsk, located on the Yuzhno-Kurilsky Cape and the Serebryanka river. The city itself is nothing to write about, probably not its fault, as it has been moved several times as both volcanic eruptions and Tsunami wrecked the town thoroughly. Lots of damaged houses and ships are still visible on the surrounding beaches. The town is criss-crossed by gravel roads and built along a small river. Outside of the village, however, with the beaches serving as roads, a wonderful natural world awaits. The island is covered with dark coniferous forest separated by taiga. The amount of heat-loving endemic species in the Kunashir flora is enormous, some of them only occurring on this specific island. The uniqueness of this flora predetermined the creation of two reserves on the island in the north and the south. The northern part of the island is beautiful, but mostly wilderness. It is possible to climb Tyatya, which is a young volcano and still active. The territory is full of bears and wild horses. The southern territory is abundant with thermal wonders and geo-thermal activity. Mendeleyev, the other volcano, is easily accessible as well as the Golovnin Caldera which has two crater lakes. Facing the coast of Japan, Cape Stolbchaty shows you its striking cliffs. Iturup, is the other island in the Kuriles which can be reached by air from Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk. It is the largest Kurile Island and belongs to the Kurilsky District. It consists of volcanic massifs and mountain ranges. Its high cliffs are precipitous. The most prominent peaks are The Stokap Mountain (1634 m) and Bogdan Khmelknitsy (1589 m). Active volcanoes are Atsunupuri and Berutaruba situated in the south of the island. The center of Iturup is the city of Kurilsk. It is located on the mouth of the Kurilsky river on the Kurilsky Gulf coast. Its low mountainous relief is covered by forests and picturesque valleys of rivers and streams. Lake Lebidinoye is one of the most beautiful lakes in the Kurilsky district. Flora of the Kurilsky district is very rich. In addition to elfin wood mountain tundra, there is mixed tropical vegetation.
There were originally three main ethnic groups in Sakhalin. The Orok and Nivkh lived in the north and the Ainu lived in the south. There was also originally a small group of Evenk. The Ainu are one of the oldest and most enigmatic people in the world. The light skinned and bearded Ainu men and women with tattoos around the mouth and hands, were a war-like people Their adaptation to natural conditions was highlydeveloped. Women sewedclothes and footwear from skins of sea and land animals. In winter the Ainu wore sealskin garments ornamented with fabric appliqué. In summer they wove fabric from nettle and elm bark. Most Ainu were evicted from Sakhalin and resettled in Hokaido. The Nivkh people belong to the group of Paleo-Asiatic people. Their original name Nivkhgu ("the man") was later changed to Gilyak a name used even today by some of the Nivkh people. The Nivkh are the direct descendants of the most ancient population of Sakhalin and formerly occupied a much larger territory. The first Russians explorers (I. Moskvitin and others) first familiarized themselves with the Nivkh at the end of the 17th century. Nivkh organized themselves according to clans and each clan had its own name. The clan performed the functions of self-administration and consisted of large family communities and single families. Each clan had a territory of their own. Even today the names of clans and their territories are well know among the Nivkh population. The traditional Nivkh culture was based on hunting and fishing. Particularly important to the life of the Nivkhs was the fishing of migratory salmon which were caught in large numbers to be stored for the winter. Fishing and marine hunting took place all through the year. Individual hunts were done around Sakhalin Island, however collective hunts went as far as the Shantar islands. Gathering was the occupation for the women, children and teenagers of the tribe. In addition to nuts, berries, edible plants, they gathered marine algae, particularly the tangle and mussels. The Nivkh raised dogs and practiced cage animal breeding. In family plots they raised valuable plants The Nivkh led a sedentary way of life. Their villages were located on the mouths of spawning rivers or on in coastal areas. In April they moved to summer settlements where they lived until autumn. By the earliest 20th century individual summer dwellings no longer existed. These settlements were small from 2 to 29 houses. The traditional dwelling was a semi-subterranean house in the form of a simple or a truncated pyramid. The fireplace was in the middle and the beds were built along the walls. Nivkh clothing differed from that of the Ainu. The traditional outerwear was made of fish skin, skin of sea mammals, reindeer and mosses and consisted of trousers and a gown. Winter outerwear was made of ringed fur seal without a collar or a hood. Women's robes usually were decorated with the spiral Amur Style. Metal ornaments adorned the hems. A winter fur hat with lynx ears would be a sign of an owner's wealth. Footwear would be made out of seal and sea lion fur and was remarkable for its durability and water-resistance. Nivkh women had unsurpassed skills in processing skins of fish and made footwear, clothes, tobacco-pouches and bags from them. Most of their cooking implements were made of birch bark, such as various baskets for carrying water and boxes for storing small objects. All of these implements were decorated in the same typical spiral design as in the Lower Amur River. The Nivkh were animists. In each object they saw a human aspect and human features. The practiced the cults of water, taiga and earth. To assure good relations with their guardians the Nivkh offered oblations "feedings'. All the rites with fire were closely observed. There were some complicated rites concerned with the consumption of the meat of the white whale hunting the bear and other animals. The dog played an important role in the spiritual life of the Nivkh. A favorite dog was always killed after the death of a master. Two of the biggest religious festivals "the feeding of water' and the "Bear Festival' are associated with the killing of a caged bear. This particular festival was always accompanied y sporting events, games and playing musical instrument. The main idea for the festival is the worshipping of nature and its inhabitants. A bear, according to Sakhalin's people belief, was a mountain man, or spirit. For this reason many amulets are bear-shaped. Families kept some of these amulets for years. Shamans treated sick people with amulets, but also many families made their own. Today there are many attempts to revive this festival as the basis or national arts revival. The folklore of the Nivkhs features twelve independent genres: tales, legends, lyrical songs, etc. The folklore has no name but fights evil spirits and protects those who were offended, being the advocate for kindness and justice. The Nivkhs create and design sculptures and carvings, specifically of twins and bears and mostly on ladles and other objects that are used daily and for the bear festivals. The Nivkh ornamented their clothing, headgear, footwear and wooden and birch bark utensils. The most ancient method of ornamentation of birch bark articles was stamping. Among the design are often tree leaves, stylized images of birds, paired spirals and leaf-like designs with symmetrical volutes. The Orok are closely related to the Ulchi, Nanai and Udeghe. All of which are considered themselves to be part of the Nani group. The ork are a mixture of Udeghe, Evenk, Nanai, Ulchi, Nedigal peoples. At the outbreak of Wrodl War II there were approximately 300 Oroks in Sakhalin, who wee part of the Japanese occupation. After the war, Soviet officials executed many of them for collaborating with the Japanese. Many of the survivors migrated to Japan where they were assimilated The Orok's traditional garment was the kimono style gown. The gowns were worn during all seasons, in summer without lining, in spring with and in winter they were made of thicker fabric with cottonwood lining. In addition to gowns they wore fur coats of young moose or reindeer hide with fur outside. Heads were made of cone-shaped birch bark and were richly ornamented. Footwear was sewn from salmon trout skin and looked like slippers with bent-up sharp toecaps, with low, front slip bootlegs. Today the majorities of Orok people wear European styled clothing. The religion of the Orok's was similarly based on animal totemistic and magical conceptions of nature, including animals, plants and water. Until the mid 1930th the Oroks widely used shaman services. The shaman was the core of its spiritual cutture, all though it did not turn into the dominant force of their religious beliefs. Decorative art fell into two categories, the male and the female. Males were renowned for wood and bone carving and women adorned the birch bark utensils, clothing and footwear. The techniques and design used by the Oroks showed a number of peculiar features. Very peculiar was painting the design on the rovduga, the colors used mostly black and red and mosaic designs of square and rectangular pieces of color fabrics. On the whole, the ornamentation techniques indicate a greater contribution to the Tungus component in their art and culture. Links
*The Russian Far East; Forests, Biodiversity Hotspots And Industrial development by Josh Newell and Emma Wilson, published by Friends of the Earth, Japan
World Wise Ecotourism Network © 2000 |
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